We have just been to Hel and back. There is only one way in – a treacherous,
seemingly never-ending, winding road with dangerous corners and ledges that are
too close for comfort, and there is only one way out – returning up that self
same dangerous route.
We journeyed there for a few reasons. The scenery was, apparently, breathtakingly
beautiful and the destination promised to be an oasis of tranquillity. We were lured with images of complete
sanctity, and of a challenge to travel a road fuelled by adrenalin.
The road to De Hel is only 37 km long. There is a sign post at the start informing
travellers that the route will take over 2 hours to complete. 37 km – that
seemed doable. The road is a rough stone
path with a river or two to cross. We
lurched from side to side, inching forward for what seemed forever. Just as we hopefully crested another pass,
hoping to see the river bed, more mountain ranges and winding roads snatched
all hope that the journey would ever end.
It did of course, after many false hopes and some despair.
The final pass, called Eland’s Pass, was the most harrowing (and
breathtaking) of all. Sheer cliff faces
with hairpin bends made for a rapid descent and a sharp decline. At this point we were grateful not to meet
any other vehicles – someone would have to give way, and there was no place to
go.
We stayed in the valley overnight at a Cape Nature
cottage. It was a further 10 kilometres
into the reserve, but the end was in sight.
A handful of cottages have been restored sympathetically to their 1800s
construction. It is hard to believe
anyone would choose to live there (a couple of families still do).
Cape
Nature had left a few books in the living area of the cottage.
One was the visitors’ book, which warned guests about the danger of
baboons invading the house if they smell food.
Another was a coffee table type book that explored the Karoo
region. The page about De Hel said
something like:- If you have the time to go to De Hel, rather use that time more
wisely and go somewhere else!!!
The trek out of the valley was less daunting. We left behind the cries of the baboons, the
arguments the other family staying near us had in loud voices, and the desolate
environment. We were familiar with the
route and could look forward to a village stayover that evening in a more
comfortable place.
The whole adventure is a metaphor for me. The road into dark places is uncomfortable
and dangerous. There is no warm welcome
at the bottom, and the only way out is to travel back along the same track,
clinging on to familiar markers and hope of gentler place to stay when we
emerge.
The best, of course, is to take the guide book’s advice and
use the time more wisely by going somewhere else, but that is not always
possible. Use the hiking rules if you
find yourself embarking on this journey – never ever travel alone, always tell a
friend where you are going, keep three points of contact with the ground at all
times, and take some warm clothing.
Winding road down into De Hel valley |
I am glad I have seen De Hel. We can tick it off the bucket list. It was not kind to glucose numbers (which may
have been elevated to start with because of a zip line adventure at the Cango Caves
earlier that day…..).But we took some photos of the stunningly beautiful nature
and have lived to tell the tale.
In the next blog I will tell you all the wonderful things we did on this road trip. I just had to get this out of my system first.......!